Imagine the driest, most tasteless roast you’ve ever eaten, served in a pitiful little portion that makes you cry on the sad walk in the rain to get a kebab before punching the person who recommended the place.
Now imagine the complete opposite, and you’ve got a roast at Kennington’s rightfully revered Brown Derby pub. I must warn you to approach a Brown Derby roast with caution, as it may make every subsequent roast you eat taste like the above. In fact, approach the building itself with caution, as one step inside is enough to whisk you off into the roaring twenties.
I digress, the Brown Derby roast is a force to be reckoned with, warranting the exclusive brand of attention and excitement usually reserved for the Christmas Dinner (only you can get it every week and there are no leftovers). As I’m always keen to dish out the Chokabloc squeal of approval, I opted for the plump, spit-roast Norfolk chicken, bursting at the seams with flavour and swimming in rivers of gravy that flank the perfectly seasoned stuffing balls and the oozing cauliflower cheese. The buttery Yorkshire pudding adds a delectable finishing touch, alongside the seasonal roots and shoots that taste how jumping into a pile of Autumn leaves feels.
I’m not even being dramatic; the flavour released in every bite genuinely does fill you with such warmth and joy, that you know the chef is wholly devoted not to only cooking, but to you. The best part is that it comes in my favourite kind of portion; the portion you only ever see when you visit your mum for the weekend and she’s convinced you’re not being fed anymore. That is the only kind of portion that makes a roast worth every penny.
The Brown Derby is at 336 Kennington Park Road, SE11 4PP.